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Central Florida Farms
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Adding Life to Yours!
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Including Alocasia, Colocasia & Xanthosoma Elephant Ear Plants
Easy Elephant Ear Plant Growing By David Mattocks
What is an Aroid? - any plant of the family Araceae; have small, lily type flowers massed on a spadix surrounded by a large spathe. All aroids are the family Araceae. Another name for an aroid Arum (as in Titan Arum). Aroids make up a diverse natural selection in the wild and I'm guessing that only about 80% of them are available for home cultivation and human appreciation on a large scale. Generally, aroids are found growing naturally in the rain forests of Central & South America and most tropical regions of Asia. The debate continues whether some are native or that as few have simply migrated to the North American continent and have made their home to (naturalized) areas such as Florida, Texas, southern parts of California is not known. I am willing to take a guess than at least xanthosoma if not native to North America, were probably brought here by early Spaniards as food crops. If that's the case, then most likely, the colocasia esculenta was as well. They are recorded by botanist, Heinrich Wilhelm Schott and William Bartram alike. So whether they have migrated to the Americas or originated is anyone's guess. The fact that a few do reside here is awesome to people like me who admire their physical structure and the ability to be able to grow them where we choose so we can enjoy them in our own personal environment. It is possible that Xanthosoma ssp. is as native here to remote parts of Florida as it is to Central and South America.
A rare area of land where the Xanthosoma Elephant ears grow wild in Florida
The
root system of an elephant ear type plant can be compared to a potato. A
potato is an actual root and you normally do not see the feeder roots coming
from a potato when you buy them to eat. Yet when you cut the potato corm up and plant the
portions that have 'eyes' (a group tissue cells that will form new plants) they
will grow into new plants within 4-6 weeks to maturity forming more potato
plants. The same thing is true with carrots without the extra carrots being
propagated via roots/runners or rhizome. The actual carrot that we eat is
the main root. But seldom are there any feeder roots coming from them when you get
them in your grocery store or favorite Farmers Market. If you take that carrot and cut off the top portion
that has the vegetation, it will grow into a new plant as long as there is a
small part of the carrot's main root (the part we eat) left to plant. Elephant ear plants act in a
similar manner. You can even eat the corm of many elephant plants when
prepared the correct way as many cultures do in place of potatoes. So when you
receive one of our plants and the root system appears in your eyes to be non
existent or has been root pruned, it is the corm itself that represents the size
of the actual plant and IS the root of that plant. Some varieties have smaller
corms than others by nature. When plants have over
wintered outdoors or are subjected to long periods of cold weather and go
dormant or die down to the corm, an eye (sometimes multiple eyes) is left along
with the corm that can be dug up in northern areas and stored similar to a
potato to keep it alive. However, It should not be refrigerated on purpose all
winter long. If it did die down from cold weather, when they begin to grow back, they
start off SMALL in appearance
When an elephant ear plant goes dormant and doesn't lose leaves, only having the growth halted until growing weather, it will just continue on as if nothing ever happened when weather permits. The point here is that we trim the lateral and feeder roots of elephant ear plants and Musa banana plants for shipping so when you get them, they will (within 1 weeks time) form NEW lateral roots and should be supporting the plant which also act as feeder roots. Please don't view the plant received as inferior or damaged. It is not. A root pruning only stimulates the plant to grow that much faster in its new environment. I have had plants get blown over and have the feeder/lateral roots completely ripped off the plant. All I need to do is use a stake, metal or wooden to support the plant from wind and before 4-7 days are up I can remove that stake and the plant is re-stabilized that fast. If your soil is not loose enough like clay or pure sand, then it might take longer for the plant to recover. They should be grown in soil that loose for optimal, steady and rapid growth. A Musa banana with a corm (even the size of a pea) can be viewed the same way. Elephant ear plants and Musa banana tree plants are such fast growing plants that they normally do not go through a shock when transplanted and relocated even through shipping and time transits over a period of two weeks. They are among the hardiest plants on the planet. When you think a plant is small, it may be to the eyes, but in the plants mind and with LITTLE help on the gardeners end, they will grow to a gigantic healthy size in one growing season, (even when started from babies), but especially when they have already been established the prior growing season. The elephant ear and Musa banana plants can even have their full vegetation cut off about 2 inches from the bulb/corm and they will grow right back during the growing season. Sometimes this is practiced to encourage baby plants or pups to form as the plant's instinct thinks survival mode. I would not recommend doing this to a very young plant with corms smaller than a penny, but even if they get broken stems at that size, it is RARE for them to die. I will show photos of some Xanthosoma plants when I get a chance to make them web ready of some very young tissue clones that our chickens decided to eat the plant material. They ALL grew back. It was frustrating to have that done, finding some of our favorite plants eaten right down to the young , fresh brand new root system with hardly a corm at all, but was very refreshing to see them grow back in a week or two of nurture. The plants were not even 3 inches tall when they were eaten. Within five weeks, they were over 10 inches tall. This shows (by accident) their stability and durability.
Planting New arrivals:
Soon
after planting your newly arrived bare root plant, the top
anchor roots should rapidly spread out quite a ways in all directions from the
plant's crowning region (just between the green and the brown) when planted in the ground or large container area. This is to stabilize the tall stems and
top heavy leaves that it will
be supporting. They also use these same roots to gather nutrients and in some
cases, to reproduce via pups from cormels. Next, lower roots grow deeper into the soil
which also help
anchor the plant to find a stable moisture area in the soil and help develop the corm size.
The top (lateral) roots near the surface of the soil grow faster than
the deeper roots do to give the plant its anchored grounding system to overcome
any wind variances and to keep the plants from teetering while it grows the
vertical root system and becomes situated in its new residence. If your plant is teetering, don’t worry, but do use a
thin, sturdy stake to help hold it to an upright position and keep it from any potential wind damage.
I normally don't even tie anything around the plant to the stake, I just use the
existing leaves to rest against it. If the leaves have been trimmed, then use a
light string that only keeps the plant close enough to the stake to keep it from
swaying or getting knocked over. Remove the string the following week after the
plant has anchored itself into the soil. The top
lateral roots will quickly spread out and in a week or so, sometimes sooner, and
should not need the stake any
longer. Despite the range of the root system, they can successfully be container grown for a long time. Years. I do recommend changing the soil every 6 months or at least once a year to give the plant some freshness and rid the soil of any salt build up from fertilizers. A larger container will produce a larger plant to a point. If you use a 30 gallon size container this should be sufficient for many years even to the Alocasia Borneo Giant plants. They will simply form a trunk like corm and continue growing upwards pushing leaves even higher into the air. Xanthosoma plants grow the same way. I have even had dwarf Musa varieties fruit in large enough containers and form pups. The soil in those size containers should be about 2 feet deep to allow roots to go where they need to go which allows the plant freedom to grow un-inhibited. Again, most aroids like a lot of moisture and humidity during the growing season, but there is always an exception and if you have access to the care about your particular plant you should follow that instead of any general care about aroid elephant ear plants. Most of our individual care is written on the section where the plant is available for purchase. Some examples of Alocasias that do not like high humid and constant wet feet are Alocasia advincula, young Alocasia sarian plants, Alocasia robusta and A. reticulata which are prone to quick rot without warning due to too much water or humidity. ALL PLANTS should have good air circulation. When you have a lot of plants all grouped together, this is a breeding ground for a wide host of fungi, mold, bacteria, unwanted bugs, and it retains too much moisture. Allowing good air circulation will prevent a lot of plant problems and will keep your plants happy. Actually many young plants are prone to rot it not
naturally propagated. I've had this sad experience with the rainy
summer of 2005 and a couple over watering cycles at the fault of myself in 2006. Even though they were protected from direct watering from the
45+ days of rain, their roots were not allowed to dry due to the constant humidity and within 2 weeks an
entire expensive crop melted without prior notice. Fungicides are helpful in preventing
this if applied before any rot occurs. Most plants in general prefer a drying period after a soggy
situation and if at all possible should be kept from a potential, continual soggy
situation. As with everything, there are exceptions to the rule. One exception is the Borneo Giant and regular green Alocasia Macrorrhiza
Most aroids do not need fertilizer to grow at a constant
rate, but fertilizer will
certainly be appreciated by the plant and quickly consumed. You will notice when
you feed them correctly. If you see a yellow
tinge to the leaves or veins, then you should certainly use fertilizer after
repotted or relocating. This disorder is usually a micronutrient deficiency and
an easily solved issue by the next pushed leaf. Never cheese yourself out with a fertilizer. Usually,
the more expensive, the better it is. Another way this can be remedied by the next leaf push
is by
using one cup of Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) spread evenly around the plant's drip line or where the leaves have reached
their length extension. If growing in a container place it as close to the outer
edge as possible and water in well. Aroids are heavy
feeders and drinkers in general and most are truly difficult to kill once they are
established. Some are even considered invasive by the U. S. Department of
agriculture and some affiliates, although most plant lovers
would beg to differ.
Soil pH of Elephant Ear Plants
- The soil that most all elephant ear plants prefer is a well draining, high in
natural nutrient content, moist, rich in organic type and tipping slightly to the acidic
side of the pH scale. A
compost soil is
best with bark chunks and leaves that will serve as a continual breakdown
process, providing a compost atmosphere.
This will keep the compost going while the bark ships help hold in heat causing
more micro life and compost nutrients. Aroids, elephant ears or banana plants do not do well in a total dense clay ground. If you have clay, you should
add amendments to the soil to remove the soil compaction and add loose material
such as vermiculite for more aeration
and drainage. This can be accomplished by mixing in small pebbles and natural
course peat or perlite. Perlite tends to float while too much peat could hold
too much water. It isn't as difficult as this sounds to make a good soil mix.
Vermiculite seems to work in our favor the best and helps hold in moisture
longer. Some
elephant ear plants love standing water and will grow directly in a pond,
but you should pull it out every so often to trim the roots unless you have a
very large pond. Some fish might like the cover that the roots provide. It is
the growers discretion. The main elephant ear type plants that do well in marsh, bog or directly in the water are:
Growing them directly in the water does not always result in optimal growth, but if they are in full sun and less than 3 hours a day shade or partial shade, they should grow into monsters. Colocasias require so much moisture that if we don't trim the leaves during shipping, they will wilt no matter how much moisture is shipped with them unless they are shipped in the container they are grown in. The leaf wilting varies between varieties but overall this is the general rule. This is why when you receive colocasia plants from us bare root, the leaves are normally trimmed. There is a proper way (or best way rather) to trim them and this applies to Xanthosoma and Alocasia as well. If you look at the area where the new leaves push up from and emerge, you will see a "V" in the skin of the stem. When trimmed just above the tip of that "V", (about a 1/2 inch) this does not harm the plant or stunt its growth in the least. If anything it stimulates the plant's survival response hormones to produce more root growth to compensate for the lack of photosynthesis being generated that when you plant it, they will establish that much faster. In fact, the Colocasia esculenta varieties are normally such rapid growing plants that they have little to no transplant shock, recover immediately upon planting in moist soil and normally push a new leaf within a few days of planting. Although they do wilt, they are among the hardiest of all plants known as far as transplanting and re-establishment into a new environment. I like to experiment so I have snipped a few different varieties of Colocasia esculenta far into the "V" and they still produced new, full sized unfurled leaves within 12 days of the trim. *** Warning >>> Off Topic Quick tip ->
Centuries of horticulture/arboriculture study have proven that when you prune a
*** Back on Topic
The reason I went into that was to show that when you trim the elephant ear plants tops, it forces root flushes, which in turn forces new leaves to grow that much larger when re-emerging in 12-14 days. After this, they are stronger plants that will continue to flourish in your garden. It's kinda scary to just take a sharp machete and cut it off to just above the corm and only suggest doing this if you have enough and it isn't your favorite plant. These are guidelines that I have experimented with and had success in doing. I don't suggest going around to all your plants and taking off their tops. I can suggest removing all the outer leaves of fast growing elephant ear plants to the middle section where you see the "V" shape and new leaves emerge, but DON'T remove that one. A new leaf should be fully pushed out in less than a week and this really should only be done at the beginning of the growing season so you can enjoy the large sized new leaves to come. Again there are many varieties of elephant ears and some do not have this growth habit and plant structure. One is the Alocasia Aurora and all those that are similar. They have a completely different growth pattern and interesting to me for that simple fact alone. They still have a visible area that will be the place for new leaves, but it is not as easily seen. It is at the middle of the base of the corm and these types normally grow a thin but tall corm. This is my experience. A helpful tip that few know about is to use one cup of Epsom salts per plant per month sprinkled around the base. The alocasia, colocasia, Xanthosoma and even banana plants will eat it UP! Actually most plants do especially many types of palms. The ingredient in Epsom salts is the element 'magnesium sulfate'. It is not true salt and regular table salt should never be used on your tropicals even though some plants are salt tolerant. If you use salty rocks such as coquina from the sea as a border around your tropicals, it may kill them in a few weeks. Make sure that they are very well washed of all the sea salt content prior to using them. If you do not, the salt leached into the soil can kill your plants slowly or rapidly depending on the amount and the type of plants. Another generality for all three of these types of aroid elephant ear plants is to use fish emulsion in the feeder root section. This also is fun, pour some beer into the container or drip line area of your elephant ear plants. No, they won't get drunk, but they will get happy.
An efficient and effective watering regiment for the Alocasia Plant species is as follows: Water in mornings, allow soil to dry all day, water in morning allow soil to dry. This should stave off any rot, (especially during the humidity of the middle summer months) and retain their moisture for the roots to intake nutrients for optimal growth. If it is extremely hot and dry, then an early afternoon watering on some alocasia plants will be beneficial as long as they will have time to dry before nightfall. Others like mentioned above should only be watered in morning or risk losing them to an unexpected rot. IF you're growing them in full sun, try not to water the leaves or the sun will react with the water droplets and cause leaf scorching. Similar to a magnifying glass. For this reason, its always better to water the ground around all plants grown in full sun. New Plant Introductions to your world It is also a very good idea to quarantine all plants for a 1-2 week period to check for pests or diseases so that you do not infect your world with anything harmful. Even the best and most careful growers can get an infestation at anytime without notice and is why our plants are used to a regular schedule inspection and spraying cycle for the common household pests. Not much we can do when the caterpillars, locusts and grasshoppers find something to sink their teeth into. They will make for good "organic additives" when found. Winter Storage in Colder Areas than Zone 8
Another way to protect them from winters bite is to dig them, trim the leaves as mentioned above and plant them in a container where the soil is just covering the bulb. Keep the soil moist, but not wet at all since a wet soil can cause rot and you may not have a plant come spring time. Most elephant ears are a lot more hardy than once thought and will give years of enjoyment producing new offsets every year to magnify your garden or landscape. Periodically check your tubers for rotted parts if you choose this method and if you find any, simply cut it off with a sharp utensil a little past the rotted spot. treat it with a fungicide and keep that part of the tuber dry as possible. The first method mentioned will take the elephant ear and other aroid plants longer to come back when the weather warms and the second method will keep the plants growing all winter so when the weather does warm up, they will take off from their break. Some plants can be grown indoors but use caution and never over water. The leaves should be misted daily to reduce browning and desiccation and the root structure kept on the dry side. They also should be able to receive adequate light since they will want to grow. Never fertilize your plants during the winters. They normally will not have enough energy to receive the uptake of nutrients and this can cause burn or death. Temperate and Subtropical Climates: In zones that do not get long steady winter temperatures and few freezing over night weather, the ground does not cool down fast enough enough to be harmful if you plan of leaving your plants in the landscape. A good week of warm weather in the high 70's, low 80's will keep the ground warm enough to sustain. This is a great benefit when those sporadic freezing nights and cold days do show as heat rises and frost cloths and other protection can hold in enough heat to protect certain hardier plants effectively. If you live in zone 8 where it can freeze and certainly does frost, all you need is a good mulch over/around the base of the plant and leave the burned leaves as long as you can stand it. It will be added protection from any future frosty nights. All the plants that we have under the oak hammocks are left alone during frost and short freeze spell protection times since we have sporadic cold weather and a warm spell can arrive at any time, even the day after a hard freeze. Of course winter brings drier air as well but just before the cold fronts hit, the rain comes and saturates the soil. This should be perfect for the next few days of an oncoming cold session. Unless it doesn't rain, we keep watering to a minimum. In the event that a known cold snap is surely the case and it isn't expected to rain, we will water in the morning before the temperatures are expected to drop. The plants in this environment usually do not even get frost bit since the oak tree canopy forms a covering over the plants and actually hold in a bit heat from the earth creating what is known as a micro-climate. To be safe, if you can cover them with a frost cloth or other type of added protection, that is always a good idea. NEVER USE PLASTIC to protect your plants as a sole covering. If you build a structure to cover the plants where plastic is used, make sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves or any part of the plant. It should remain at least 3-4 inches above any leaves. Plastic that is touching the leaves will be filled with a condensation layer between the leaf and the plastic and if the frost doesn't do them in, then the following days sun rays will scorch them. It will defeat the purpose and be a waste of time. Plants along the outer edges of a tree hammock protection zone could be prone to catch the bite of the frost, so those should either be moved or covered. It is better to be safe than sorry and a little diligence pays off in the long run. One cool thing about giant elephant ear plant leaves (see photo below) is that they protect themselves from the frost. Even when the mature leaves are melted, the plant material below the mature leaves was protected during the frost period if it didn't get too far below freezing temperatures for too long. I took this photo of a group of established Xanthosoma sagittifolia plants that had been bit by a frost a few days before. Here in our section of Florida the temperature may fluctuate drastically from one day to the next. The X. sagittifolia and a few other species of fast growing elephant ear plants take advantage of the warmth immediately and begin growing again. Most Colocasia species are the same way. The photo depicts the new growth within a week after a very hard freeze we had that was into the 20's one night, low 30's for two more consecutively. These particular plants are not shaded by artificial means or tree hammock growth and did melt as you can see. They were protected at one time, but the massive 38" caliper Laurel Oak that covered this area was taken down during Hurricane Jeanne. I jokingly refer to the photo as the sad elephant ears due to the look and droop of the fleshy leaves hanging off the stiff veins. The day after a frost, you will be able to tell immediately if they were effected or not. Either they will appear translucent in color and yellowed or already drooping. Normally the drooping comes about 8-10 hours later and when left on the plant like these, will become a dry paper-ish texture.
During the rainy season If the soil that your aroids are growing in is well draining, (very well draining), then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Incase you do wish you prevent root rot, apply a simple copper based fungicide (read the directions on the container carefully before applying) and this works quite well. Even if rot is present in its early stage. If so, remove the rot with a sharp knife and apply the fungicide and keep watering to a minimum until the plants regain strength. Pests and Enemies that can cause much frustration for your Elephant Ear Plants: The main enemy of the less hardy Elephant Ear Plants is a result of high humidity without the breeze to allow ventilation and evaporation or during periods of daily rain in partially shaded areas can make some of the most susceptible accommodations for rot (depending on species). Many gardeners including myself have had large, very healthy and prize winning or favorite plants die suddenly, without warning within 2 days of noticing any rot near the base of the plants (the crowning area). I have sadly watched a few of my favorites die after I did everything right. It is always best to have your Alocasia (especially) growing in a medium with very little heavy soil, mixed with 1/3rd peat, 1/3rd course perlite or chopped/crushed pine bark and 1/3rd vermiculite (to use as a retainer for nutrients). The only pests I have seen in an organic garden on Colocasia, Alocasia and Xanthosoma are mites (rarely), mealy bugs (rarely) and aphids. Aphids are very common among xanthosoma and colocasia but seem to leave the alocasia plants alone. Aphids are easy to control with organic pesticides. Mites are just as easy. Mealy bugs can persist, but after a couple sprays are also easy to keep out. You should always quarantine your plants when you get new ones. When the rainy season is long, such as Central Florida experience in 2005 & 2008 with 2005 having over 50 days of rain at a minimum of 1 inch per day (sometimes 4 inches!), using a quick release fertilizer that is high in nitrogen is not advised. This can bring on rotting of the stems and leaves and shortly afterwards, the crown. Once the crown has rotted, the plant is usually a goner. It can happen so fast that a new leaf will be emerging from a perfectly healthy plant and wham, it falls over. If you want to try and save your plant in the case of a stem rot, remove all the rot that you are able to. Most likely if this has happened the roots are probably mush as well, just get it down to the bulb even if it is small and repot, spray with a copper based fungicide and keep the watering down. I've had experience (sadly) and if you catch it early enough most of the plants will come back in a few weeks. If they are not going to live, they will just rot to a mush in a week or so. If you don't care and have patience, just leave them where they're planted and see what happens in a few weeks. Sometimes although rare, there will have been one tiny piece of the plant that wants to live and you'll see a new leaf. Hasn't happened a lot but it has happened. But I have lost some really nice plants that were well established to high rain fall. No warning signs usually either, just fallen over one day with a new leaf that tried to unfurl. Most elephant ear type plants really are easier to take care of than just about any plant. yes, some are difficult but what fun would anything be if everything was easy? You can use this same basic care with musa and Ensete banana plants. I have read many accounts of collectors digging up their favorite banana trees/plants, leaving them under their house or in their garage for the winter with the leaves trimmed to the newest one. They will pick up growing where they left off even if you are prone to extreme cold temperatures. Manicure your Plants! Yep, these aroids when they are growing as they should will grow so fast that the oldest leaves will bend closer to the ground and eventually turn yellow, die off and dry up. Before they dry up, they go through a mushy stage and I like to avoid that at all costs. They should be pulled in the opposite direction in which they grew (downward) and should 'neatly' pull off the corm near the base of the plant as if it were perforated. Doing this actually encourages offsets to grow and you should see 'eyes' when you gently tear off the oldest leaves. it is wise to leave them as long as possible before that mushy stage so the plant can benefit from photosynthesis. If you do leave them on it wont hurt the plant. It will take longer for the leaves to dry and the area of the base of the plant to be neat once the old leaves hit that mush stage. Its kinda nasty to pull them off also while in this stage of decay. Another good reason to remove them before decay sets in is that is just one less chance for fungus or rot to occur. Once dried and if not removed they can be similar to dried up banana leaves and become a host area for all sorts of unwanted insects. Palmetto bugs and the cockroach will make their homes in this material and use the top layer of corm as a starchy food source. Besides that it is an eyesore and your landscape will look more beautiful without the dead leaves. They can either be thrown in the compost or placed around the base of the plant as additional organic matter. Factoids Aroids are one of the few plants are known to generate their own heat. This phenomenon is not known by scientists/botanists why this occurs or exactly when or what stimulates the plant to do this. It is thought that morning sun or when the plants begin to flower is when the most heat is generated. This is thought to help create the scents from the lily type flowers that attract pollinating bugs. I found this interesting and thought I'd share. Maybe this is why many are more cold hardy than originally thought? Most of the elephant ear plants mentioned here are used somewhere as a food staple. Some plants are used boiling the leaves while most are used of their corms as a potato like starchy food. This is common more in the Xanthosoma species than anything due to its rapid growth rate but all varieties are used as far as I have read. Colocasias are turned into a soup like dish named 'Poi' in Hawaii. Where ever they are grown, they are grown and used by the locals for their food source and medicinal purpose. The Alocasia Odora Azurea is said to be a lung cancer cure. I do not know and as I state on a few pages, do not recommend this unless you take full responsibility for your own actions and know what you're doing.
I
hope this information was helpful and if you have some advise that you'd like to share or
discuss, please let me know.
Enjoy! ©2004,
2009 David Mattocks
&
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